Saturday, July 31, 2010

Book Review: The Last Grain Race

This is such a classic tale that it is hard to know what to say about it without repeating it word for word.

The book tells the true story of how Eric Newby signed on to the four masted barque the Moshulu on the traditional trading route from Belfast in Northern Ireland to Port Victoria in Australia. Here they load with grain and join a small but select fleet of tall ships racing back to Britain.

It was to be the last ever such race, for they arrived back in June 1939 just weeks before war started, and the world was never the same. Never again did these great ships sail the trade winds across the wild seas of the southern ocean.

One thing was certain: it was a very hard life, and very badly paid. If (say) a bucket was dropped overboard it would come out of the sailors wage, which were pretty meagre. An apprentice like Newby was on just 10 shillings a month, and out of that he had to pay for a lost hammer and cigarettes bought on-board.

The food sounded awful, the bed bugs huge and hungry, the company rough to the point of aggressive, the watches relentless, the rigging dangerously high, the work backbreaking, and the boats riding potentially lethal storms without any insurance.

But it was a moment in history, the last in the line of oceanic voyages by sail that goes back through the history of Dampier and Hawkins, an era that has come and gone.

Ironically I read recently that in order to cut costs and CO2 emissions, shipping lines are reducing their speeds until they are less than the average that Moshulu and her sister's achieved on their last great race.

As to who won that last ever race? Well if you've read the book you'll know and if you haven't I won't spoil it for you. For The Last Grain Race is one of the classics of sailing history.

Cayman Airways Super Sale!


Happy Birthday to Cayman Airways! 

They are celebrating their 42nd Birthday with super low fares! 


If you book from July 30 - August 7, Cayman Airways will offer fares as low as
US$142.00 roundtrip for Miami and Tampa, and US$242.00 roundtrip for New York.

Contact us & we will combine these great fares with a hotel stay for a great Cayman Vacation Package!

Friday, July 30, 2010

What the fadom?

So I was re-reading The Tempest after Monday's trip on my iThing and something didn't seem right in this bit:

Ariel
    Full fadom five thy father lies,
    Of his bones are coral made:
    Those are pearls that were his eyes:
    Nothing of him that doth fade,
    But doth suffer a sea-change
    Into something rich and strange.
    Sea-nymphs hourly ring his knell

Shurely shome mishtake, thinks I. Maybe it was scanned or something... I'll just email the App makers and let them know.

But no! It was right, sort of, because "fadom" is an alternate spelling in ye olde English for fathom. However the Shakespeare App maker also said they tried to use modern spelling and so will update the text to say "fathom".

You learn something new every day.

The picture above, btw, is just a random pic of a rather nice sunset taken after yesterday's evening kayak on the Thames, trying out the new iThing's camera. Slightly disapointing to be honest, but maybe there's an App to fix that too.

Where Am I? Mary's Outhouse @ Grand Pineapple Resort, Antigua


It's FRIDAY! Let's have some fun.... where in the world am I?













It didn't take very long for the smart Caribbean lovers out there to figure it out. Anyway, Mary's Outhouse is a very cool little spot with amazing food & views. Certainly enhances any stay Grand Pineapple Antigua.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Yo ho ho and a bottle of £ 600 rum?

On the 31st July 1970 the Royal Navy toasted goodbye to it's daily ritual of the tot of rum, on what it called "Black Tot Day".

Forty years on the remains of that last consignment of Royal Navy rum are up for sale at a staggering £ 600 per bottle (ok, technically on sale for £ 599 at this site, but shipping is £5 so a spot of rounding seemed sensible).

Tasting notes, to be found on the main site here, use phrases like:

The Nose Initial treacle notes precede dark chocolate with super-ripe black fruits, muscovado sugar & walnuts. A drop of water releases notes of black banana, liquorice root, tamarind paste with an exotic edge of balsamic.

However I'm going save myself that £ 600 odd by going direct to the dark chocolate, black fruits, muscovado sugar, walnuts, banana and balsamic, all of which I have stashed away in cupboards at home.

After all that's the price of an Apple iPad or iPhone 4!

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

My Trip to Sandals Grande Antigua

I just returned from four splendid days on the island of Antigua. It was a lovely trip, albeit very last minute and I arrived much like a hurricane. Sandals Grande Antigua was the host hotel for my stay. It was my first time to the property since they completed the Mediterranean Village. Aside from the first two days of rain, I have only good things to say.

This is what you see when you first arrive. The hand painted ceiling of the lobby on your left and the picture perfect Caribbean Sea straight ahead:


I took time to wander the entire property. While I enjoyed my suite accommodations on the Mediterranean Village, I loved the lush look of the original Caribbean Grove section. If you are booked in the Caribbean Grove in a concierge room, this is where you would check-in:


While you walk to your charming West Indian cottage style accommodation, you will pass a few hidden pools... Sandals Grande Antigua has a total of 9 pools, not counting the private ones found in the villa accommodations:



Pure West Indian bliss:


If you do book a unit with a private pool, it will look something like this:



Before we move over to the new Mediterranean Side, I need to tell you that my favorite restaurant Kimonos, is located in the Caribbean Grove - seriously good Japanese fare:


This was the view from my room. Every day, all day beautiful seabirds would fly past my balcony and seemingly float in the air before then gracefully swooped on past and through the gardens below:


This is the main building in the Mediterranean Village. I stayed in a Mediterranean Honeymoon Penthouse 1 Bedroom Suite with Ocean View & Private Butler. It was amazing. I broke my wide angle lens so my photos are not that great - you can check out all the rooms online here.


My second favorite restaurant is Barefoot by the Sea... the amazingly fresh beer battered Mahi Mahi and the Grilled Swordfish Salad were my top choices:


More lush gardens on the Mediterranean side:



And then the beach - perfect white sand & turquoise water:



Facing West, each night ended with an amazing sunset:


A huge THANK YOU to the General Manager, Mr. Gerald Christ, for hosting our amazing stay!


Ready to go? I'd be happy to help you plan & book your trip! Drop me a line: Laura@CaribbeanJourney.com

To see more photos of my trip, go here.

Enjoy,

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Shakespeare and the sea

Yesterday, as you might have guessed from the last post, was off to the Old Vic to see Shakespeare's The Tempest, which starts off with a dramatic storm at sea.

And it got me wondering about the bard's nautical connections, for that is not the only shipwreck in his plays, and he is famous for saying things like "There is a tide in the affairs of men, which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune."

Despite his early years in land-locked Stratford it was in London that he wrote his main plays, and in those days London was already a great sea port. In the Elizabethan age its population was much smaller, likely around 200,000, clustered around what we now call The City and Westminster, and across the river in Southwark, the home of The Globe theatre.

Here Shakespeare could not be unaware of the ships coming and going in the Pool of London, barges and barques, river traffic and those heading across oceans. No doubt he would have talked to captains over a pint or two of beer in some pub by the banks of the Thames, and the ebb and flow of the tide would have been as well known as the rush hours of today, and as important to traffic.

It made me think of the book I'd read recently, The Defeat of John Hawkins. At first I thought they might be contemporary but the Hawkin's third voyage was 1567 - 69 when Shakespeare would have been just three. However he was 24 when the great Spanish Armada came threatening England's shores, and when the likes of Hawkins and Drake went out to battle in their galleons.

Those days of fear and the relief at eventual victory, combined with the stories of ship's captains of lands across the ocean must have made a huge impact on him, as can be found by the references dotted thought-out his plays.

Wishing to know more I did the inevitable Google and found this book with the title "Shakespeare and the Sea" which sounds like should just the thing. I then found a second hand copy on Ebay with a Buy It Now Button which then, in the heat of the moment, clicked upon.

While slightly concerned it might just be a list of quotes I'm hoping for more, for this could be a fascinating subject. The connections between England's greatest play-write and our maritime history should be a good read, but for now all I can do is just sit and wait for the parcel to drop through the letter box.

It could even be a holiday read, but that might be asking too much. Either way it will no doubt become the subject of a future post.

Updated: review here

Monday, July 26, 2010

On a ship at sea

Master
        Boatswain!
Boatswain
        Here, master: what cheer?
Master
        Good, speak to the mariners: fall to't, yarely,
        or we run ourselves aground: bestir, bestir.
Exit
Enter Mariners
Boatswain
        Heigh, my hearts! cheerly, cheerly, my hearts!
        yare, yare! Take in the topsail. Tend to the
        master's whistle. Blow, till thou burst thy wind,
        if room enough!

Of course I might have been dreaming......

....we are such stuff as dreams are made on....

Sunday, July 25, 2010

No Conch Shells Allowed


Recently, while standing in the security line at the Antigua Airport, I witnessed something for the very first time. The sweet honeymoon couple in front of me in the line had their conch shell confiscated. They were sad. The security agent was sympathetic as she explained that conch shells are not allowed on flights, unless in your checked baggage because they could be used as a weapon. The agent demonstrated, and yes, I can see how being smacked on the head with one of those giant shells would certainly do some damage... but along those lines, I could use my laptop for a weapon if need be! Anyway, avoid having to put on the puppy dog eyes and pack your conch shells in your checked luggage.

Side note: On my search for the perfect conch shell photo, I found this... the perfect conch shell house:


Photos from here & here.

Friday, July 23, 2010

Two lost boats

Found looking a bit sad on the marsh lands around Blakeney.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Seals on Blakeney Point

One of the "things to do" at Blakeney is to go on one of the many trips out to Blakeney Point to do a bit of seal and bird watching.

Actually the tourists boats no longer go from Blakeney since it silted up and you must now walk the mile or so along the coastal path to Morston where the boats come and go like buses along Oxford Street.

There really was rather a lot of them, every five minutes another pop-popping along, packed with camera toting day trippers like, er, me. Most also stop on the point so you can go for a short walk over the sand dunes to see the old lifeboat station.

I did wonder what the impact of this stream of interruptions would have on the population there. I had a look on Google maps and you can actually see the seals as short line dotted along the beach in this photo below or by clicking on this link.
There seemed a lot more then. Maybe they don't welcome being continually interrupted as they doze or go about their daily activities.

I think the best thing is to let them all in peace.... just after I take one last pic!