Book Review: Treasure Trove of the Southern Seas

I wanted to like this book.

It was, after all, about plucky British lads sailing of to the southern seas in search of buried treasure. And it was one of my mum's books when she was young, as it was for her father, my grandfather. It even has a picture inside that he drew of someone that might be my great-grandfather.

What's more it starts with the line "I say, that's pretty ripping, isn't it?" which makes it clear we're in the age when men's upper lip are a stiff as their starched collars.

And yet its awful - not just badly written but dated in the worst possible way. I found myself embarrassed to be seen with it on the train for the daily commute to and from the office. I'd have to stop and put it away to continue only when in the privacy of my own living room.

Ridden with blatant, transparent race and class prejudice, it is all too clear why this book is no longer available even on the mighty Amazon's web site. The language used by its author Captain Frank H. Shaw is simply unacceptable today - as it really should have been then and indeed at any time.

There isn't much worth salvaging, as the story, while full of storms, pirates, sharks, and of course buried treasure, is mechanical join the dots with one dimensional characters. And I have no idea why a sailing story would have a cover picture that would be at home on a murder mystery.

Not all old sailing stories are classics, and this is most definitely one that would be better lost at sea.

Misty Morning

It might well be that Autumn is, as Keats put it, the "Season of mists" but this morning was spectacularly misty.

It seemed to roll in downriver along with the morning river taxi, which appeared out of clouds of fog like the vessel that ferries the dead across the river of the underworld to Hades.

Though I doubt that ferry serves free tea and coffee nor offers a discount for those in possession of a valid Transport for London Oyster card!

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A tale of two clients...

Client A planned and booked their trip in December. A trip to celebrate their 5th wedding anniversary. They wanted the first week of May because it is one of the first weeks of low season rates in the Caribbean & Mexico. So we planned an elaborate trip to the Royal Hideaway in Playa del Carmen, a delightful resort and one of the only AAA 5 Diamond Resorts in Mexico. Then the swine flu broke out. And now they must cancel. Their trip total was $5675 for the week. Cancel for Any Reason Insurance was $119/per person. One quick phone call to my office and they are only out the cost of the insurance premium.

Client B planned and booked their trip in February. A trip to celebrate the last few weeks of bachelorhood. We booked 4 rooms at the Gran Porto Real in Playa del Carmen. They denied insurance, wanting to keep the trip cost down. With 8 people, the trip cost $6312. Without travel insurance, they are only going to be refunded $2424. Insurance for their trip would have only been $89/per person. Such a loss.

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The Annual Antigua Ritual

I have this annual Antigua week ritual. Ok so far its only been two years in a row but that's still more years than Alinghi claimed was annual for the America's Cup challenger.

Anyhow it goes like this:

January: wander around the London Boat Show wondering what sailing will do this year. End up at the various sailing companies stands where over glass of champagne mention have been thinking of doing the Antigua week. Salesman gets very excited and hands out brochures and get contact details

February: said salesperson rings up and asks whether still interested, adding that two young Australian women have just signed up if that will influence my decision (for the last two years in both cases it was two Australian women). Look out of window at cold, dark, wet London streets and dream of sunny skies and sailing around the Caribbean with bikini wearing Australian women.

March: cold reality, bank accounts and business distract me from this vision

April: check out Yachting World web site and go OMG it's Antigua week already and decide that really, really will get organised next year!

At least this year I did actually see Antigua (above). But unfortunately was at 39,000 feet on my way to Caracas and so little details could be seen.

Next year! (er....maybe)

Cayman Summer Splash

Visit the Cayman Islands June 1 to September 7, 2009 during Cayman Summer Splash and enjoy a family vacation like no other. Kids fly, stay, play and eat free!

During Cayman Summer Splash, the whole family will experience some truly impressive savings. Book a minimum 5-night stay and get the 5th night free. You can also save on all the fun things to do and see around the Cayman Islands, like watersports, wildlife tours and unique cultural experiences.

Book before September 2, 2009!

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Participating Hotels:

Cobalt Coast

Comfort Suites

Grand Cayman Beach Suites

Grand Cayman Marriott

Morritt's Tortuga Club & Resort

Sunshine Suites Resort

The Reef Resort

Ritz Carlton Grand Cayman

Westin Causarina

And... some villas/condos are participating as well!

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Another vaguely nautical music video

Feeling a bit smashed this evening after a weekend paddling and sailing on the Thames (maybe should say in the river given the ducking we got after our Lark got hit by one of those gusts that come from no where) plus biking up and down to Barnes and Hammersmith plus a walk this afternoon plus cooking plus....

So rather than the post originally was going to give you, here is another vaguely nautical music video. Unfortunately the yacht is only shown for a short time and even though it has coffee grinders (which is always impressive looking) they never seem to raise the main sail (which is not at all impressive).

I'm afraid there is lots of padding involving someone driving a car and young people dancing around in beachwear - sorry about that, hope you don't mind too much.

Now off to put feet up for a bit.

The pain behind a slightly nautical pop video

Adam has been treating us every Friday with a music video, often from the classics from the seventies and eighties when as we all know there were real bands around.

Alas my modest YouTube video is less old school though it has a vaguely nautical theme and a hidden tragedy.

If you watch it you will of course see a rather pretty blond sailing what looks like a Turkish Gulet (well I say sail, but to be honest there's rather a lot of motoring).

At about 56 seconds in you will see a classic example of how not to coil a rope, and there no doubt will be those gentlemen out there that will wince painfully that the young lady should go so misty eyed on one who clearly does not deserve it.

But sorry chaps, lets not get overdramatic here, if you want real pain check out a story about the singer / model of this "Everytime you need me " by Fragma (no not Frogma who is of course a paddler from NY) ft. Maria Rubia.

Now Maria Rubia is the singer and also Prada model who has recently given birth to her second son Brendon.

If you want to know why Brendon should remember to send not just a card but flowers too every Mother's Day (and why doctors should make sure they diagnose correctly first time) click this link here.

Ooch!

Gentlemen, our rope coiling might not be appreciated but at least we don't have that to worry about.

Three Cheers for Robin Knox-Johnston

To celebrate the Internet's first Robin Knox-Johnston day here are three reasons to give the chap three cheers.

1. For being "Distressingly Normal"

Recently there's been this program on aunty beeb called "Top Dogs: Adventures in War, Sea and Ice" in which Robin Knox-Johnston, BBC reporter John Simpson and Arctic explorer Ranulph Fiennes challenged each other to enter each other's world.

The final episode all three had to go to the wastes of northern Canada somewhere in Frobisher bay and hike through -30 C conditions. They only had to do it for a couple of days and it was clearly pretty horrific. But it suited the steely glint in Fiennes's eyes, the look of a man who would - and had - chopped off his own fingers after they got frost bite (and do it in his garden shed).

Some great men and women have that look: Ellen MacArthur did when I met her. Its a drive that makes them appear slightly un-human compared to us mortals.

But Robin, while determined, while resolved to drive himself, is clearly made of the same stuff of us. Indeed the psychiatrist that examined before and after the record breaking Golden Globe voyage around the world described him in both cases as "distressingly normal".

Bravo!

2. For Not Stopping at 70

Sir Robin was born 17th March 1939, making him just over 70 - many congratulations to him. But is his retiring to nursing home or hanging up his oillies? No sir, not by any means.

Recently he competed in the Velux around the world single handed race, handling super charged modern Open 60's, called appropriately Saga Insurance.

And in the Top Dogs program he was at it again sailing around Cape Horn once more, battling against the elements and southern oceans:

In that episode ice man Fiennes was sea sick while in the Arctic one John Simpson's fingers were in such danger from frost bite that he was evacuated by doctors order.

Only Sir Robin did all three tasks - hurrah!

3. For being British

We're a small country with banks that are managing to keep their heads above water just about as well as the Titanic, so its worth banging the drums for something or someone worth trumpeting.

I'm always a bit dubious about the jingoistic "we're the best" form of nationalism, so while I enjoyed our Olympics success accepted it was reflected glory.

But when I travel the world its interesting to see how people react when I say I'm from old blighty. There are things this country has done that aren't anything to be proud of, but if they (or you) know of Sir Robin Knox-Johnston and his achievements and thinks of them as being in any way British, as British as pints of beer and marmite sandwiches, that can only be a good thing.

Hurrah, huzzah!

Is this blog killing Yachting World?

Ok, maybe a bit of a drama queen of a title, but its a long post and there's no pictures, so had to do something. Maybe you should get a cup of coffee as well.

Its one of the hottest topics at the moment, and of real importance to all of us. How will those that rely on the printing press, in particular the newspapers and magazines, cope with the internet and will that lead to a lowering of the quality of information?

When the income from the web from advertising is so low and the cost remains the same something has to give, and there has been a lot of articles bewailing the harmful affect of Google on newspapers and corresponding replies of rubbish - its the internet stupid, and Google is just the messenger.

But Elaine Bunting's post on the YW site makes a good point, in that the internet brings its own problems, in particular trust. Something like the New York Times has a reputation built up over many years and people who's job it is to fact check while blogs like this could for all you know be the fantasy of a 12 year old living in Shanghai.

One comment though got my goat - that blogs aren't as good as print as its all too simple to cut 'n' paste an article. Well let me tell you a little story.

I remember a few years ago ex President of Iran Mohammad Khatami went on a lecture tour of the United States. I find the whole US - Iran dynamic interesting, particuarly as its based on a whole series of misconceptions on either side, and Khatami in particular for being a moderate and not crazy like some could mention.

As I read on a UK based news organisation web site, one of the reasons for the tour, he explained, was to try to get his message direct to the American people as the media all too often demonised his country.

Ho, hum, thinks I, it will be interesting to see how that speach is reported across the pond, so went to Google News and found two facts out:

1) That aspect of his speach wasn't reported in any of the US based newspapers I checked

2) While there were many, many US newspapers, some from cities I remember visiting like Cleveland, Houston, San Diego, Seattle, all of those reported the speach the same way. I mean exactly the same, word for word the same, cut and paste the same (from AP if I remember right)

And you just have to look at various news sources that claim to be "fair and balanced" to know that truth isn't guaranteed in mainstream media either.

So I don't buy the argument that the print media as a paragon as originality any more than truth and honesty: in practice they are all too happy to print a nice PR note and put Paris Hilton at the top of the running order.

It is worrying because as citizens we need a free press and it is costly to have people on the ground, hacks prepared to sit through intermiably dull local council planning meetings and be shot at in dusty far away places.

But is there an alternative? I recently read this great post (that I recommend that everyone reads) that looks at a range of funding models including advertising and micro payments and basically says we are in the middle of a revolution and we don't know where we are going or where we will end up but the current model has hit its iceburg and like the Titanic is going down.

Should we fight to preserve these papers then? I'm certainly going to say no, because what I want to save is the journalism not the medium.

I check the news on various online sources far too often, several times a day. But not one of those sources is one of the US mainstream media (MSM). If even the New York Times was pulled down by its debts tomorrow I would be very sorry for the people but not an institution which has failed too often, and is failing now.

Yes it has won recently another clutch of Pulitzers and they are well deserved but all too often these are the exceptions rather than the rules and big stories are broken and followed up in blogs. The Webby is the prizes of the future.

The only news or information web sites in the US I check on a day to day basis are all blogs. Partly because the MSM is so parochial, but also because blogs can cover topics that interest me in so much more detail, richer, more responsive, more interestingly. Often stories come from participants: why read someone's report of a race when you can read stories from the racers themselves?

As Elaine says the unpaid blogger would find it hard to get the same reportage on (say) Somali pirates as a BBC reporter on the scene. But even there things are changing. US blogger Philip Weiss covers topics related to the Middle East and wanted to be able to go to AIPAC and the Gaza Strip to report directly and so he put out an appeal using PayPal and within a few days had raised enough.

The Obama campaign also showed that web based funding can raise huge amounts.

Of course there is the danger that the stories that covered will be the ones with money but the same is true to an even greater degree for the print world (consider the influence that billionaire Rupert Murdoch has on newspapers and TV stations world wide)

Apart from direct funding number of models might work, including micro payments (which I still feel has a lot of potential) or even state funding (the BBC approach, possibly replacing the TV licence with a broadband tax). The latter may be unpopular and indeed a classic case of taxation without representation but god bless the Beeb - the best value broadcaster in the world.

It is probably too early to say which will dominate and it is likely to vary by country and for their to be a range of levels from multi-national cross sub-sidising organisations like the BBC to Twitter.

But putting the ability to report in the hands of us the people of the world can only be a huge plus. Indeed while blogger Phil Weiss has raised enough money to visit Gaza it could be argued that his trip is less necessary due to the web, as there are bloggers there reporting on day to day life.

In the Shirky post he likened it to the transformation after the invention of the printing press, and how in the early years no one knew what was to work. There was a lot of experimentation and over the years there have been models than have come and gone (such as the pamphleteers).

But I'll end with his ending: "No one experiment is going to replace what we are now losing with the demise of news on paper, but over time, the collection of new experiments that do work might give us the journalism we need".

Port Antonio, Jamaica

Welcome to Paradise... and one of my favorite places on the planet... only 3.5 hours drive from Kingston, Jamaica...

and a little isle called "Monkey Island"... we swam here from the beach in the photo below. Sunburned to a crisp and tired to the core, but well worth it...

There are cool rivers to swim in... a REAL lazy river... this is Frenchmen's Cove... a splendid little unknown gem.
A swing for swinging and the best seat for people watching... a real tree swing... wood worn smooth by the years....

And a rope swing... enjoy at your own risk...His nickname was Gilligan... because we found our own little private beach on the other side of the river and made camp. He was so happy... the river is perfect for toddlers... no waves to worry about... plenty of shade to protect delicate skin...

Frenchman's Cove has a beach too...one of the most photographed on the island...
The sunsets in this town are what sunsets are all about... picture perfect and soul warming...

If you're hungry, take a short drive down the winding hill to Boston Bay and the most famous jerk of all...Lush is an understatement... what tops lush in terms of perfectness of a word, I don't know... but LUSH just won't do.

The homes are designed in true beach house style... white washed to reflect the sun...

Another view...

We left under grey skies... threatening the only rainfall we would have seen... the only rain we heard fell at night... and lulled us in to a deeper sleep.

Clearly the meteorologist was spot on...

More on Port Antonio accommodations coming soon...

A few towns over, on the drive back to Kingston to catch our plane home, I spotted this church and was taken... said a prayer and was thankful.

Crash at Canaima

Couldn't help but note this very sad story in the papers this weekend, of a six year old British boy who was killed in a light aircraft crash in Venezuela near the Canaima airstrip. This is where flights to see Angel Falls leave from, and he and his family were in a Cessena 208 Caravan which apparently lost power just after take off.

Its a pretty unforgiving place to have engine failure, with wilderness pretty much all around the short airstrip, as you can see from Google maps if you click here.

My short flight by Angel Falls and into Canaima and then out again was luckily uneventful, though it did feel a bit more "interesting" than flying into Heathrow. The descent into London's main airport usually starts about 30 km from the runway and you join a regular line of aircraft spaced 2 minutes apart.

The descent into Canaima was a lot more exciting: we were quite low already as the flyby was about half way up the fall's near 1 km face, and the pilot didn't climb any further up, just banked a lot to get us out of the canyons.

We were flying a BAe Jetstream, so our guide joked if we went down it would all be my fault! Luckily of course we didn't, but I couldn't help but notice there were a couple of pranged aircraft around the airstrip.

Above you can see a photo of an old DC3 rusting away (spot the propeller on the ground by the right engine) which was on the right coming into land.

On the left was this - not sure what it was, but it looks like another aircraft that didn't make it.

There is some irony here, as Angel Falls discoverer, Jimmie Angel himself, crashed when he tried to land his aircraft at the top of the tepui. It took him, his wife, and others including his gardener 11 days to trek to the nearest settlement.

Natural Navigator - Solution

Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas about how to naturally navigate from trees in spring time - here's how I started thinking about the problem.

The navigational information here is coming from trees, and how the first shoots of spring come at different times depending upon geometry, most particularly how they are orientated with respect to the sun.

The photo above is the starting point, though it was actually taken afterwards.

What can be seen is that each tree starts showing signs of life across the whole tree at once: there maybe a slight difference on opposite sides, but that is a secondary effect, and looking at many of the trees either here or in the park couldn't see a huge difference in terms of number and sizes of leaf on north vs south branches.

That's probably related to how trees work: I'm no expert but guess the bio-chemical messages that say "spring is here" are transmitted around the whole tree at once, though will be triggered at different times depending upon the tree's location.

Though there is some navigational information in this first picture it could be dangerous to make an assessment from just this source. Firstly the tree to the right might just be a bit more to the south of the one to the right, not due south. Then it is a built up area and there could be other factors such as building shadow, drainage etc and so while it is an indicator, there is potential for error.

However for the picture of the avenue it's not just one tree but a whole load of them, and in particular:

1) All trees show the same effect: all the ones to the left are much further out than any of the ones to the right. So statistically this is a very strong signal

2) The difference between the trees to the left and right is pretty much the same all the way down.

If this avenue were aligned south-east or south-west you might see the ones at one end being different from the other end. But in this case they weren't: the trees were very similar all the way along.

Hence I'd suggest this shows the avenue is close to east-west, and the south is on the left hand side so we are looking close to west.

So about a trillian points to the Natural Navigator himself (who spotted a lot more than I did in the photo), points to Tillerman and Carol Anne for thinking on the right lines, while O'Docker of course gets the special "Google" prize for correctly finding the direction and location.

This actually is the avenue in Wandsworth Park which you can spot on Google Maps by clicking here: I was slightly surprised to see the avenue actually points slightly off east-west by 10 - 20 degrees. That's an easy mistake to make with the Thames on one side as it wiggles a lot so actually doesn't flow west to east that often.

I hope you all found this interesting: for me thats one of the key benefits of thinking about navigating naturally: you look at the world around you in new eyes and spot details and are aware of it much more.

Picture Puzzle Photo Clue

For the natural navigators working on the picture puzzle posted previously, here is a photo clue.

Taken around the same time as the other photo it shows just two trees but all of them and in isolation.

Its harder to get navigational information from just two tree, unlike an avenue. Again it was taken on another cloudy London day, so hopefully no short cuts :)

Natural Navigator Picture Puzzle

A picture puzzle for you natural navigators out there.

This picture shows spring coming to one of London's parks, but can you work out in which direction was this photo was taken?

Two clues for you:
1) It was taken in the northern hemisphere (doh!)
2) All the trees all the way along the avenue look pretty much the same on either side

Answers please.

The Hermitage Plantation Inn, Nevis

It's no secret that I love old things... when I see the words "flea market" or "antiques" on roadside signs... my heart rate increases and it takes serious self control to stay on my intended course. Obviously, the old homes of the Caribbean give me great joy! I've been known to stray from many intended courses in the Caribbean and pull over to explore ruins of great houses or sugar mills... So it is with great joy that I introduce you to The Hermitage Plantation Inn... one of the oldest hotels on the isle of Nevis and one of the oldest Caribbean homes.

Dine on antique china... seated on a gingerbread terrace... in the evening breeze...

Enjoy hours of conversation... sip rum recipes passed down for a few hundreds years... and watch the setting sun cast long shadows across the antique oriental rugs...

Dream in a four poster bed... the real thing... there are no replicas here...Let the bright yellow shutters of the stable house catch your eye and warm your soul... time and time again...
Wander the mature tropical gardens on your way here... and there...

Yes, I mentioned gingerbread...

The beach isn't too far away... and the cool pool is even closer...

Nevis awaits... to welcome you!

Piracy or Blockade?

So you're a terror of the seas, heading out onto the ocean seeking adventure, barrel loads of gold coins and for your pockets to be heavy with pieces of eight, but don't know how? Well what you want is a trusted source such as this blog to give a bit of career advice.

Obviously the first bit of advice is to mend your wicked ways and retire to an honest life of toil on land, but if that very sensible and true words of wisdom somehow do not hit the spot, read on.

Today we received an email from a Mr. L. J. Silver who asks "Should I follow my current career of piracy or change to the blockading line of business?"

Well Mr. L. J. Silver, that is a good question and we must analyse it properly, looking at it from the angles of reward, working conditions, and fringe benefits.

1. Rewards

Recent research has indicated that the rewards of piracy can indeed be good. If you look at this report here you will see that Somali pirates are currently getting between $1 and $3 million a go - not a bad hawl for a an old sea cook like yourself!

However don't be hasty in your decision, as this report here shows that blockading can be profitable too - this report shows how French fisherman won themselves even more than that - a whopping 4 million Euros!

With the current exchange rates that's over $5million - so its round one to blockading.

2. Working Conditions

It must be admitted that working conditions as a pirate off Somalia have not been that good recently with increasing naval activity from countries such as France, Britain, and the United States. Indeed several pirates have lost their lives due to rescue operations from France and the US in recent days.

However the blockaders have been left alone to do their business and are able to go home to sleep in their own beds in the evening, possibly dropping in for a vin rouge on the way. And the Government rather than fighting invites you in for talks with unlimited coffee and buscuits!

Round two to blockading.

3. Fringe benefits

This is where piracy strikes back: recent studies as reported by JP showed that its rewards includes some that mere blockading can not bring. Says this Somali of the pirates: "They wed the most beautiful girls; they are building big houses; they have new cars; new guns"

Alas French fishermen at this point look downcast and agree they can not counter this argument. Round 3 to the yo ho ho brigade.

Summary

Well Mr L. J. Silver, I hope this detailed analysis has been helpful.

Our research has shown that blockading brings greater rewards and better working conditions, though lower fringe benefits.

It might well be that a change of career could be in order!

France and the freedom of the seas

The freedom to travel the high seas unhindered is one of the cornerstones of the maritime industry, commercial and leisure. The recent rise in piracy off Somalia has prompted France to send a warship and use force to free a captured yacht, accepting with determination and sorrow the high price involved.

Alas any form of prompt and determined action is apparently not feasible closer to home. French fishermen have blockaded several French ports and refusing to allow ships to travel to or from the UK. This is seriously damaging trade, with the M20 motorway in Kent now little more than a parking lot for trucks.

I'm seriously at a loss to understand why these fishermen aren't just moved off. They are breaking the law, inconveniencing many, causing financial hardships at the worst possible time, and to do all this so that they can continue to over-fish?

Stock in these waters are approaching critical levels, and we have seen in the disaster of the Newfoundland cod banks how the destruction of through over fishing can be near complete.

What's more they already get subsidies (i.e. my taxes) and the majority of illegal fishing incidents involved French fishing boats.

Thankfully we have a tunnel that isn't affected by this blackmail, but enough is enough, time to stop the blockade, and not by just giving greater subsidies.

Strawberry Hill, Jamaica

Yes... it's true... strawberries do grow in Jamaica... up in the Blue Mountains... if you want to find them yourself, then check in at the Strawberry Hill Resort...

Enjoy the negative edge pool... super cool... and popular with kids of all ages...

We drove up from Kingston for breakfast... and our kids couldn't take their eyes off that pool...

You can dine on the main verandah... or tucked away under the protective lush cover of the hanging jade vine...

Isn't she lovely?

If the view is more your cup of java... then dine cliff side and take in the sights...

Kingston... a colorful city 3000 feet below... a city that gave birth to a legend... the legend of...

...of the music of Bob Marley... tokens of his life are evident... after all, the resort's owner was Mr. Marley's first music producer...

Mmmmm... the stories we'd love if these walls could speak...

If the quietness of the place doesn't lull you into a deep enough state of relaxation... then the spa certainly will... breathe in... and out... it's Aveda of course...

Lay your head here... and dream...

...of green, green pastures... gingerbread cottages... and tropical florals...

or of children.... enjoying paradise... as all children should...